From the parking place the road splits in two after 300 meters, here we take the left to get to the foot of the wall.

Battert – Left to the rocks!

Regions in which we climbed:

Battert map

All the routes except the ones on Predigstuhl are accessible from the upper trail which can be found right after the Battert map sign. Normally you must rappel down.  

1) Falkenwand

Hallweg 4+, Falkenwand

One of the most frequent climbed route. It is a magnificent 3 pitch climb. It is easy, it can be well secured with rocks, friends. The difficult parts are bolted. The first pitch starts in a chimney.

Hallweg 1. anchor

The second pitch goes through a crack, then a plate. After the second anchor comes the best part of the route, a beautiful 5 m traverz, which can be secured with a friend in the middle.

Hallweg Falkenwand

Freundschaft 5+ (1-2. kth) & Hallweg 4+ (3. kth), Falkenwand

I climbed this route a couple of times and it is always full. Today it was free so we gave it a go.

The first pitch The route is 3 pitches long. It could be done in two but I do not recommend that, because the friction of the rope would make it difficult. It starts hard, basically free solo until the first bolt, which comes only after 8-9 meters. One small(3,4) nut can be placed, but do not expect too much from it. The whole route can be considered as one big 5+ crux. You can only rest in the anchors.

First anchor

The first anchor is on a big ledge, which is crowded, because it is also used for rappelling.  The route is sightly positive. The second pitch has 2 good bolts, the route is slightly negative, but it starts with a beautiful traverse.

Travers with a lot of air under the feet

Looking back from the second pitch

The anchor is also used for other routes(Hallweg) here is the book, where we already made a few entries. From here we took the Hallweg traverse, which is one of the parts in the whole Battert region.

Falkenwand book

Rappelling down on Falkenwand

 2) Predigstuhl

Direktroute 3+, Predigstuhl

Ideal wall for beginners and kids, its positive with big holds and cracks for the hands. Falling rock hazard is minimal. Height: 30 m.

Predigstuhl

 Kleine Westkante 3+ & Glattes Wandel 4, Predigstuhl

To end a good climbing day, we went to the easier routes. It was empty, so we built a small top rope. The route has no bolts, so it can be used, as a good training for tradition climbs.

Predigstuhl – Westkante

 3) Blockgrat

Blockgrat 4+, Blockgrat

2 pitches, ca. 60 m. There are no bolts in this route, but it can be secured very well with mobile devices.

Blockgrat start

Blockgrat – looking down from first pitch

After the 1 pitch, from the anchor comes the best part where you have to step from one tower to the other, the distance is just 1 meter but the depth makes it interesting. Eszter always spends some time here thinking…:)

Blockgrat – The Step

4) Hohe Wand

Handfegerverschneidung 4-, Hohe Wand

Nice, easy route, ideal for beginners and kids, but it has only two bolts. Steinlaus 5+, Hohe Wand Nice climb, well bolted, the crux is at the end after the bolt.

Hohe Wand

5) Villa Steig Massiv

Ca. 30 meters pure reibung.

Kiefernweg 4

Nice and easy route, 1 bolt, and that is all, not much to put in the route…

Durlacher Wand 5

Really nice reibung, two bolts, and maybe two friends.

Villa Steig Massiv – 30 m

Gabi in the Kiefernweg

6) Saas Maor

Schmittkamin 4 & Südverschneidung 5-

This time we visited an unknown tower in this region. The Schmittkamin is one of the first routes climbed at Battert according to the book. The route is 2 pitches, with the first one starting in a chimney.

Schmittkamin start

The first pitch starts in a chimney, you can put a few equipment in the route, but there is also a bolt.

First meters of the chimney

After the crux, which is the top of the chimney, you get on easy land. The second pitch starts with a not too good looking piece of stone, which looks like it is going to fall down any minute.

After the not too good looking stone

After that it is easy, with one bolt. Here you have more variants to choose from. We took the Südverschneidung(5-).

The route through the Südverschneidung

Here we return regulary 🙂

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